How to choose correct Marine Battery

Your boat’s battery operates two basic types of work, starts the engine and drives electrical loads like electronics and accessories for the light period. To choose a battery, first determine the battery application and then select one of the four  batteries chemistry: Flooded, Gel, AGM or Lithium.

Starting Batteries

Starting batteries, that crank the starter of your boat’s engine, are the sprinters of your electrical system. They deliver between 75 and 400 amperes for 5–15 seconds, and then are recharged in short order by your engine’s alternator. Like all lead-acid batteries, they’re made with an alternative level of negative and positive plates with insulation.

Deep Cycle Batteries

Your boat’s house battery bank uses deep cycle battery, the marathon runners of the storage system. They power the electrical masses on your boat when no charge supply (shore power charger, engine generator or solar panel) is available. Consider a savings account in which the energy is deposited or withdrawn.

Dual-Purpose Batteries

Dual-purpose batteries with a higher thickness plate than to start batteries and active lead paste chemistry, dual-purpose are a good compromise, which tolerates deep drainage that discharges a normal starting battery. Since they have low storage capacity compared to relatively small-sized deep cycles.

What to look for

  • Starting functions: The amount of energy available for a starter cranking is measured in different ways.
  • CCA vs. MCA: The two general power measurements are CACA (Cold Cranking Amps,Battery MPS can maintain voltage at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and 7.2 volts) and MCA (Marine Cranking Amps, similar but 0 ° changes in 32°F). MCA is 20-25% higher than CCA because the battery works well at high temperatures.
  • Size: Engine size, type, and close temperature confirm what size cranking battery you need. High cranking power (and a larger battery) is needed for cold temperatures, diesel engines, or big and high compression gas engines. The first-order criteria are to fill the minimum CCA described by the engine or boat manufacturer. If a group 24, 550 CCA battery works well for five years, we recommend replacing it with similar models. However, it has been very gradually cranked or failed after a season or two, we’ll recommend that you find a battery with a high CCA or MCA rating.
  • Deep cycle functions: Battery power measurements are usually expressed in Amp-hours (Ah) and reserve minutes. Before leaving the AM-hour voltage of 10.5 volts, the battery measures the total energy that can be supplied for at least 20 hours of discharge. It means a 200Ah battery can run a 10A load for 20 hours. The number of minutes that the battery has to wait until the reserve minute rating runs on battery 25A until it drops to 10.5V. With a reserve of 180 reserve minutes, a group of 27 deep cycle batteries will run 25A loads for three hours. House load can be 5A to 25A or more. Amp hours are generally more relevant for home banks.
  • Longevity: Battery manufacturers measure the length of the full radiator, exceeding 80°F until their voltage drops to 10.5 volts. The battery is recharged under controlled conditions and the process is repeated if the battery retains its rated capacity of more than half its capacity. This measurement, called cycle life, shows how much discharge cycle a battery provides its lifetime. This force of repeat cycle distinguishes it from the start of the battery in a deep cycle, which can not tolerate more than some deep drainage before it fails. If nothing else, the cycle life provides a baseline to compare the other batteries.

Battery Tips for Best Performance

Whatever type of chemistry of the battery you like, follow this recommendation to get the best performance:

  • Stay with one battery chemistry (flooded, gel or AGM). Each battery type needs a specific charging voltage. Mix battery varieties may end up in under- or over-charging. This may mean replacement of all batteries on the board at the same time.
  • Do not mix old batteries with the new ones in the same bank. It seems that it will increase your overall capacity, old batteries will drag new ones to their bad levels.
  • Control the battery temperature and acceptance (with manual or sensing) charge voltages to maximize battery life and reduce charging time. Make sure to charge your charging system adequately to charge the battery charge efficiently. This is usually 25% to 40% an alternative with many amperes as the power of your entire battery bank.
  • Keep batteries clean, cool and dry.
  • Check the regular terminal connector to avoid the loss of the conductivity.
  • Add unconditional water to the flooded acid batteries if necessary. Keep them charged. Leaving them in a run for a specific time will harm them and reduce their power.

This post was written by: Kate Westall


If you find this information helpful please consider a donation. These articles, questions and comments are very time consuming so even a small donation gives me motivation to keep educating automotive owners. Donations will allow us to continue open questioning/comments, automotive education and repair tutorials in the future as the business grows. All proceeds go to the expansion and maintenance Thank You

MDH Motors logo

About Kate Westall

I am Kate Westall, a freelance writer and a professional blogger, who enjoys enlightening others about unknown and little-known facts. I love to write on all general and professional topics on Automotive..

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *